Monday was our first full day in Teotitlan and all of us were very excited to get to work with the Vida Nueva women in the afternoon. Until then, we each spent time in the morning with our mothers getting acquainted with the daily routine of a woman in Teotitlan. Some girls went to the colorful food market in the central zocalo of the town to buy freshly baked bread, tender cuts of meat, luscious green vegetables, and bright, ripened fruits. Some girls had the opportunity to check out the mills where the cooked corn from the night before was ground with water to make the masa for tortillas. For the rest of the morning in the homes we were entertained by watching our mothers weave their beautifully intricate rugs, make tortillas (and even sneak one caliente- hot off the grill!), prepare comida, do laundry, and many other daily household tasks. At noon, we all gathered at Vida Nueva for our first lesson with the women. They started by telling us a little bit about their history and then about how they’ve grown. The group started off with about 30 women, but many women ended up leaving the cooperative or got married. The principle drive behind the idea of the cooperative was to provide independence from the house for women. Traditionally, men did not like having the women out on the dangerous streets and they thought women should stay in the house taking care of the family. However, this small group of women started to change the way people in the community thought; after one of their first projects of cleaning up the streets in the city, the people began to see their positive impact and encouraged their work. The group now consists of about 14 women, most of whom are single or widowed, but there are some whose husbands support their involvement. Some of their projects include building ecological stoves to reduce the amount of smoke produced and protect women’s health, cleaning up trash in the streets and getting the community involved by hanging buckets for waste all around the city, dedicating a day to women and spreading “gifts of love” to widows, singles, and all women in the form of food, and finally we were introduced to the project we would be collaborating on, which was called Sembrando Vida, where we were to accompany the women out to their plot of land to plant trees and set an example to take care of the environment. In all, these women are very intelligent and dedicated whose thirst for knowledge and need to contribute to the community were contagious.
During our stay in Teotitlan, we got to accompany our host mothers to the daily morning market in the town center. This was unlike any market in the City, which seem to be catered toward tourists. Women bustled around dressed in traditional attire. Many wore long printed skirts topped by layered checkered aprons. They all flock to the market each morning to sell goods and collect fresh local food for comida in sturdy woven baskets. Taking part in this regular activity in the life of women here provided a nice glimpse into their daily life. It was fascinating to observe the people at the market, each stopping to touch hands in a Zapotec greeting. On Tuesday morning we all get up early in order to meet the Bii Dau group at 7:00 and join them at the Huerta. It was difficult to roll out of bed with the early morning sun, but well worth the effort. The walk up to the farm plot was amazing. We sleepily made our way up the winding dirt road that lead to the Huerta, picking up donkey poop along the way for the days activity. After 20 minutes we arrived awake and ready to make compost. After making a nice compost pile the men at the farm told us about the dry toilet system they had set up there. It was interesting to see what the other group of students had been doing and to meet some of the members of the Bii Dau cooperative. We finished at the Huerta around 11:00 and returned to the village to spend the rest of the day with our families. Later in the evening Casey, our host mothers, my little niece and I took a walk to the presa, a large dam that feeds into a canal, which runs down to the village below. Hay tortugas? Valeria, the four-year-old niece, excitedly told Casey and I about the turtles as we approached the presa. We threw small pebbles into the cloudy green water, built little stone structures and picked flowers as the mothers collected twigs and branches for firewood. They tied the wood in large bundles and hoisted them on there heads. These are tough women! We walked back down the hilly terrain as the setting sunsplashed vibrant pinks and oranges across the horizon. On Wednesday, our group went to Area Verde along with the women from Vida Nueva to plant trees in order to decrease deforestation. It was a really great experience to work with these women on this project and we were all really impressed by their working abilities. For some of the women, their age was not an issue for completing this task, and they put such a great effort into getting the job done. Some of the trees we planted included lime, walnut, and zapote. Afterwards, we all piled into the back of a pickup truck to ride back into town. It was a fun experience and we all enjoyed working together to get it done. Later that day both the Bii Dau group and the Vida Nueva group met with John to discuss what both groups had done so far. Everyone was really excited to see each other and we all were happy to catch up and compare the two trips.
On Thursday, hands down our busiest day in Teotitlan, we joined the Bii Dau group again early at the huerta where they showed us a natural bio fertilizer that they’d made to protect cacti growing in the fields (an important crop used to breed chochinilla, an insect used to make the red dye for tapetes). Feeling like Ghostbusters, we took turns wearing large, white, plastic backpacks with hoses to spray the cacti. Later we chopped more cacti to compost, watered several of the crops, and returned to the center via truck bed. An hour or so later, we reconvened at Vida Nueva where we got the opportunity to work with wool, as Pastora showed us how to make a thick blanket by simply adding water, pressing, and drying the material overnight. We made jewelry by wetting strips of wool, twisting or rolling it, and sewing the pieces together; so far, our bracelets and necklaces have been put to very good use. From Vida Nueva the group went to Ellie’s house where her host mom, Theresita, and Theresita’s father showed us their process of making beautiful decorative candles; a tradition specific to Oaxaca that had been in Theresita’s family for generations. The wicks stood at least 4 feet tall and hung from hooks attached to a large wooden wheel. Theresita’s father slowly poured layer upon layer of wax over the wick (making clear how much work goes into one candle) while she made wax flowers using moulds. We later watched them carefully cut and decorate each flower as they passed around older pictures of candles made by family members, and we learned that they were related to the candle maker that we visited in Santa Ana de Valle! We made a quick trip to the local church, prominent in the village center, which was elaborate and colorful with fresh flowers and many of the decorated candles; definitely a very important aspect of life in the community. After a rushed late comida, each of us made our way with our mothers to a small barn and plot of land that belonged to one of the families; separate from the village itself, we had views of the flat land around and us and the nearby mountains as the sun began to set and we began to build a bed to plant in, using bamboo sticks as a border and shovels to break up the soil. John demonstrated how to implement drip irrigation while our mothers watched, curious to see the process. We planted some organic seeds, onions, watermelons, greens, etc. before checking out the sheep and pigs that had been hiding in the barn.
Friday morning we met up with Bii Dauu group around 5:30am and set off in the dark, quiet morning to climb the mountain we’d spent the week awing over, Picacho. Our mothers packed us with fruit and sandwiches, and some of the cooperative members of Bii Dauu guided us up to the top, where the village hosts a party every May. It was the perfect way to end the week, looking out over not just Teotitlan but other small villages, the dam and the land we’d been working on, the continuing series of mountains. Before leaving, the six of us received a traditional cleansing in a dark room at the cooperative, wiping plant leaves mixed with mescal over our skin. It is one example of traditional healing methods used in the village; it felt very personal and there is certainly lots more to learn. Overall, our experience at Vida Nueva was educational and inspiring. We all made memories that will last a lifetime.