Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Update From The Bad Arts and Sciences Kids who Keeping forgetting to do the Blog

Hello Friends & Family,

Geology class with Barry Doolan is going very well. This year our class is focusing on water, so we've learned how to use a colorimeter, test Total Dissolved Solids and pH. We're making predictions about what we might find in the water in various places around the state of Oaxaca, and then testing the water to see if our theories are true. Last week, we ventured off to the remote town of Apoala where we tested the community's water, explored deep into caves with lots of guano, and hiked down to the gorgeous waterfalls to go for a swim. The falls were absolutely beautiful despite the frigidness of the water. It was an amazing place to visit as almost every other place we have visited has had a water shortage. Apoala is comparable to a hidden oasis in a desert. Upon descending into the Apoala valley, the landscape changed drastically from dry and rocky to lush and green. They cleary had a very successful agricultural system despite the "dry season" Mexico is currently finishing. It seems as though there really is such thing as a dry season in Apoala.

After the Apoala trip, Russell, Annie, Kristina, Ellie, Erika, and Claire took off for the port for the weekend - Puerto Escondido. Annie celebrated her 21st birthday with us Saturday on the beach, ending the night with a nice dinner right on the sand and some dancing. Sunday, we traveled to a smaller beach called Manzanilla about 20 minutes from the main beach Zicatela. At Manzanilla we hired a boat to take us out, show us some sea turtles, and snorkle in various locations along the coast. We soaked in the sun all weekend and finally, with sunburned backs, climbed onto the 15 passenger overnight van to take us back to Oaxaca.

We'll be sure to add some pictures once we return from our trip to Capul...Calup..Caup... A pueblo in the Sierra Norte that I cannot pronounce, nevermind spell.

ARTS AND SCIENCES FOREVER

Sunday, April 11, 2010

Greetings from the Food Track

Imported: USA - Jean Harvey Borino
Commence: Health in Oaxaca class

On Monday Jean Harvey arrived ready to teach us about ongoing diet trends, both global and Mexican. We have been discussing topics such as the health care bill in the USA, health care in Mexico, and the relationship between American agriculture policies and Mexican health. We were given a breif Nutrition 101 class, where we reviewed essential components of a healthy person's diet such as: carbohydrates, protien, calcium, iron and daily caloric intake. We have been reading about obesity trends, both urban and rural-in addition to Western medicine and homeopathy.

At the start of the week some girls went to watch everyone's favorite pastime- baseball! Although "Take Me Out to the Ball Game" wasn't sung, it was a lively game between Oaxaca and Campeche with Los Guerreros de Oaxaca winning the game.

This weekend, a group of girls ventured to Puerto Escondido, while others took advantage of the last weekend in the city. In the llano (a small and beautiful park) a human health and environment fair was held; dozens of NGOs, cooperatives, Universities, small businesses and working groups came together to educate the public. It was wonderful to see so many people involved in amazing projects such as pedal power (generating electricity by bike pedaling) environmental art, sustainable agriculture models and projects, in addition to human rights and environmental advocates. Overall it has been a fufilling week and a great start to a new class, which has made the end of this program seem further than it actually is.

Monday, March 29, 2010

Hola!
This was our last week of the art class with Corrine. On Tuesday we visited museums and galleries around Oaxaca to work on our Cultural Biography project. Each group managed to track down a handful of paintings by their artist, and by the end of the day everyone could recognize an Olivera painting from a Toledo from across the room. As we went on, we discussed the symbolism behind the art work, and how Oaxacan culture was being represented.
On Wednesday we ventured out of the city again and
visited the communities of Ocotlan and
Coyotepec. In Ocotlan we found the Aguilar sisters- 3 sisters who have set up shops next to each other, making and selling pottery. They specialize in figurines, everything from village women to goats to skeletons. Their work has been featured in the Smithsonian, and it was amazing to see where the art was made. Afterwards, we wandered around Morales' house and walked to see his mural in the town center, discussing what we saw and sketching in our journals. We grabbed a quick snack of quesadillos and hot chocolate in the mercado, and then hopped on a bus to Coyotepec. There we went to visit the home and studio of an 87 year old women who had been making black pottery since the age of 12. Watching
her knead a block of clay and shape it into a vase was mesmerizing. Her main tools were her hands, and she moved with the strength and agility of a much younger woman to finish the basic structure of her piece in under 15 minutes. We talked with her for a little while, drew some more sketches and then headed back into the city with a new appreciation for arte popular.
The next day we met early in the morning to go to the studio of Claudia Vergaz, a local "upcycle" artist in Oaxaca. Claudia collects trash- wrappers, tinfoil, cans- and turns it into art that has gotten her recognized internationally. She transforms everything she finds into shadow boxes, dolls, frames and piggy banks. We were in awe of the amount of creativity she had to use trash in such a different way. Furthermore, Claudia mentioned that she is starting a sort of women's cooperative, where she provides training and small jobs for women living on the streets. It was really inspiring to hear of how she rose up in the art community and is now using her abilities to give back.
Friday was the culminating day of our class, and we gathered together in the morning to present our artist biography projects and art journals to one another. We wrapped up some of our thoughts about the meanings of folk art and culture, and compared artistic skill in our drawings. Later that evening we met as a whole group at Mary Lou's to show the Food and Nutrition track all we had worked on the last couple weeks. They were suitably impressed, just as we had been with the feast they prepared for us on Wednesday during their class. We all agreed that the art class had been wonderful. Learning to make alebrijes and identify works of art was completely new to us, and we enjoyed being able to see so many aspects of Oaxacan culture portrayed through pottery and paintings. Corrine was a great professor, always ready to look at another museum or assure us that our sketches really were great. We will miss her after she heads back to the U.S. but we're looking forward to starting Geology with Barry next week!
Brazos a todos!
Sarah and Caroline

Sunday, March 28, 2010

Culture and Cuisine

Food Systems Track

The food systems track started their first week of the Culture and Cuisine class with Professors Amy Trubek and Cynthia Belliveau, looking into the concept of cuisine in Oaxaca, and how it fits into the past, the present, and the future of the people of Oaxaca. After a day of in-class discussion, we had our first field trip to Las Quince Letras, a restaurant where we tasted and analyzed three different types of mole, a traditional sauce that Oaxaca is well-known for. It was a really filling and tasty experience!

Continuing with trying to understand and deconstruct the Oaxacan cuisine, we discussed the differences between pre and post-conquest ingredients in the Oaxacan diet. A lot of us learned that sugar, mangoes, onions, garlic, and chicken weren't here pre-conquest! We then took our new found knowledge to the Hidalgo Market in Colonia Reforma, where we bought ingredients to make an epic meal! After five hours of working together diligently in the most beautiful kitchen we have seen so far, we mastered an incredible meal that we got to share with the Arts and Science group. We even got to make our own tortillas (with a little bit of help)!

We also had the chance to experience food at Teatro Culinario, a restaurant that believes in using local in-season ingredients of Oaxaca to create artistic, contemporary dishes. Very different than any of the food we have tried within homestays, in other restaurants, and on the streets! Finally, we made a trip to the Tlacolula market to look for different types of herbs and chiles that are used in Oaxacan dishes.

We are excited to learn more about Oaxacan cuisine and to cook more in the kitchen with Cynthia and Amy!

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Food Systems Track


The food systems crew, 13 mujeres and John Hayden, spent the past week in the Sierra Norte of Oaxaca. On Monday morning we met, sleepy-eyed at 6 am in the Zocalo and made our way to Abasalo bus station where we boarded public transportation. The bus made its way outside of the city through the Central Valleys out to the mountainous Sierras, to a village called Capulalpam de Mendez. We split up into three groups and stayed in houses with families, where we ate our meals and slept. It is amazing the change in climate out in the mountains, lush green forests, fruit trees, vibrant flowers, and the constant backdrop of the endless mountains. We learned about the governance system of the village (usos y costumbres) and what it means to be a "magic town". We celebrated Lesley's birthday with a bonfire, all sitting under the beautiful, starry night sky. We went to a traditional medicine center and learned about different beliefs of health and indigenous medicine. We saw a demonstration of a limpia, and some of us received traditional massages and participated in a temezcal.
We also spent two nights in Yavesia. This was a small village of less than 700, located in a drastic valleys, the houses literally perched on the side on the mountain, a river in the middle of the valley, separating it into two neighborhoods. We had individual home-stays, which posed as a challenge for many, but was definitely rewarding in the end. We learned about the villages efforts to protect their forests from being exploited for lumber. An ongoing legal battle that shows the challenges of communally owned land, and an inspirational real-life example of people reclaiming their commons. We spent Thursday hiking and appreciating the woods in the mountains, the jagged rock formations, and the breathtaking views. We returned on Friday, meeting at 4:30 am, to catch the only bus to the city.
Words cannot quite do justice to the natural beauty and tranquility of these villages. Hiking in the mountains and seeing the beautiful pine forests, rivers and flowers, was like candy for a bunch of nature-deprived Vermonters, I am not exaggerating when I say it was blissful. It was a refreshing and challenging week, I think that we all pushed our comfort zones, and learned a lot. It was good to be learning but also feel like we are really experiencing Oaxaca, more and more it seems like the most important things in life are learned this way. Experiencing first-hand a different way of life, a different way of thinking, has certainly broadened our own perceptions. We have talked a lot about our relationship to nature, our selves, agriculture and the environment all being a part of the same thing.
Now we are about to embark on the last month of the program with cooking classes and discussions on food and culture. We are all very excited and eager for what the next month has in store for us.
Abrazos,
Jessie and Page

Monday, March 22, 2010

Arte Week 2-Arrazola!


This week marked the 2nd week of Art class for those of us in the Arts and Sciences Track. We started out the week with regular scheduled classes at Solexico coupled with some field trips including a visit to the house of Oaxacan artist Rene Bustamante. We were all amazed by his vast (over 2,000!!!!) collection of painted masks that covered every available surface of his gorgeous house. These masks, like much of Oaxacan art, tell stories of traditional cultural practices including dances and other ceremonial uses.

As amazing as our visit with Rene was, the highlight of our week was our weekend-long field trip to the town of Arrazola to learn about “alebrijes” as a supplement to what we had been learning about in the classroom. Alebrijes are hand carved wooden figures (usually animals) made from the Copal tree and elaborately painted with various ornate and intricate designs. In order to enhance our learning experience, each member of the group stayed with different families to whom we gave various food items and paint supplies as a small gift for the immense hospitality they offered to us. After a short while, we realized that this small gift could never compare to what these families gave to us by welcoming us into their homes and of course, providing us with endless amounts of food and the overwhelming hospitality that we have found common here in Oaxaca.

Among the many things that we learned during our stay was how central the family is in the production of the alebrijes-while the father and sons carve the figures, the wives and daughters often collaborate in the painting process, making the final product a family creation. While we came into the town with the preconceived notion that what we were studying (the alebrijes) was a craft of mass production for tourists, we came out of the stay realizing how much time and careful artistic consideration goes into each and every piece. We met on Sunday morning to partake in making a breakfast of memelitas together with the community, each and every one of us sad at the prospect of saying good-bye, but comforted by the sincere requests of the families that we return soon and stay with them again. We all look forward to fulfilling this request.

Paz y amor from Oaxaca-Elena and Amber.

Russ, Caroline, Allie, Taylor, and Sarah

Monday, March 15, 2010

Arte es chido!


This past week of March 8th through March 12th, seven of us (Russell, Taylor, Allie, Caroline, Sarah, Amber, and Elena) began our new Art History Class with Professor Corrine Glesne - Manifesting Culture through the Arts in Oaxaca, Mexico. The class is a combination of making artwork, learning about traditional folk art from Oaxaca and Mexico, and the anthropological aspect of art. For example, one theme we’ve picked up on a lot is the influence of capitalism and tourism on the production and evolution of the art. Some of these art forms, most commonly pottery making, have been around for thousands of years. In the beginning, pottery was a way to support life – you could store food and drink, cook, carry things, etc, but now it both serves its basic functions and collects income from tourists. You can imagine how pottery designed for functional use might evolve if its creators adopted a new motive, to attract tourist buyers. The shaker in the photo, for example, is a piece of art that probably doesn't have much of a functional use, but is a nice thing to bring home and remember Oaxaca.

As demonstrated in the photo above, we’re collecting our findings in our own, personal, handmade art journals – sketching “arte popular”, pottery, textile designs, alibrijes (wooden animal figurines – with bobble heads!), murals, and devoting a few pages to reflective writing or creative additions. On Wednesday, March 10th, we visited a Oaxacan jewelry museum and drew representations of pieces we found. On Thursday, 11th, we took a trip to the Zaachila Market, explored the arts and crafts we found there, asked about the history and production, and purchased a variety of artistic objects. The photo on the left shows a table in the Zaachila market displaying gourds, bowls, and animal alibrijes - all of which are probably meant to be sold as souvenirs or decorations. Caroline and Russell went into the market with specific intentions to look for these and other objects created from gourds. They found the shakers above which are hollowed out, cleaned, filled with their own seeds, glued back together, and painted. Different family members take on different tasks in the creation, a brother might dig up the gourds, a sister might clean them out, and an aunt might paint them. This, at least, was one case we found in Zaachila.

Friday we took a trip to a local store to learn about natural textiles, how they are made, what their patterns mean, and when they are worn. After Fridays class, for the day of the Samaritan, Oaxaca was bustling with people here to collect all of the delicious (and free!) fruit waters being handed out on Calle Alcala, in the Zocalo, and other locations around town.

Saturday night, everybody celebrated Lesley’s birthday on the rooftop of Mezza Luna, complete with fireworks and cake presented with a song on the violin. Sarah, Caroline, and Elena took off to the Coast until Tuesday afternoon, and everybody is enjoying their long weekend. Paz y Amor from Oaxaca, Adios!